Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Choya and Personal Space





The 21 hours of flight to Taipei were boring.  I was next to a woman who slept most of the way.  She woke up only to ask me give way for a toilet trip.

So, I sat by the window on my way back. As I was organizing my reading materials, a well dressed Asian lady checked her boarding pass that indeed, her seat was next to mine.
I was pleased that it was a woman, my return trip companion.  And if she had a weak bladder, then I now was in the window seat, and “she can go to the toilet as often as she needs” I consoled myself.

She was very methodical.  She took her high heeled boots off along with her “nylons”, and put on the ugly flight slippers immediately.  Then, in Mandarin, asked the flight attendant for magazines.

I have never been good at telling the age of Asian women.  I am usually about 20 years off.  But when she needed something from her bag and she took her right slipper off to step on her seat and reach the bag, I saw a noticeable bunion.  So, perhaps my age, I thought.

I was preparing myself to doze off.  The flight attendant came by with the useless, wasteful and ineffective hot towels.  I declined, but my companion asked for two of them!  By now, I had no interest in sleeping.  Two!  I had never seen anyone do so.  As if she wanted to eradicate leprosy.

What she did next was pure fiction.  She wiped off the retractable lap-table, her seat belts, her seat’s arm rests and controls for volume and channels.  Then, with the meticulousness of a pathologist, she folded the hot towels into triangles and placed them, one atop the other, at the edge of her left arm rest.
All this, and she did not even acknowledge my presence!
“Perhaps I am too sloppy for her,” I rationalized.

The flight attendant came by offering drinks.  She ordered something in Mandarin and I asked for whisky.
When the drinks arrived I saw that hers was an aperitif of sorts, made of plum, I think.  A small, barrel shaped green bottle with a dried fruit in it.  She stabbed the fruit with a toothpick a few times and took her first sip.
Then, as if she suddenly noticed me, she raised her glass “Cheers! My name is Ma.”

So, was I supposed to forego sleep?
“We should not be silent for 16 hours,” she suggested.
The woman knows what she wants, I convinced myself.

I looked at her hands.  Like her bunion, her thumbnail showed a certain age given the texture and lines it had.  Her face was ageless though, and I could not have given her more than 30 years of age if looking at her face alone.
But she had the hands of an artisan.  Well defined muscles, veins, and rounded finger tops.  She moved them like a potter would around wet clay.

“So, the usual first question,” she asked with the ample smile taught to all Asians.  “First time in Taiwan?”

It was going to be boring, I knew it.

“Oh, for 15 years now?  You should know every corner of that little island!”
(“Choya” the little bottle read.  The one with a dry plum in it she was mercilessly stabbing while talking to me.)
“Ok, then the next question…”

I stopped her short.  I was feeling like a 4th grader answering questions from my friends’ moms.
“My turn: what do you do?”

She smiled of that smile that says “Ok, so you want to be the smart one, eh?”
“I am a pianist.”

Aha! I knew her hands were those of an artisan.

“Piano.  I have to admit I am more of a string instruments guy, although one always knows about piano.”  I was hoping that the conversation would end on that note.

“So, people who do not like piano still know Chopin, yes?  Every teenager boy likes Chopin.  You were a teenager once, no?”
True.  I once was and once did.

“Sure, his Nocturnes were among my favorites.  I played them on badly scratched records.”

“Ok, let’s see: do you remember which ones were your favorites?”

It had easily been 30 years since I last was a teenager.  I did not remember how many there were.  But for some strange reason two of them had stayed in my mind.

“Nocturnes No. 7 and 20,” I said, proud of my pedantism.

“Oh, I do have a C-man next to me!” she exclaimed in pleasure.  “Are you an artist?”

I never know how to answer that question.
“I try to do literary work.”

“Try?  Either you are very lucky or you have another job!  Trying does not pay for business class around the globe.”
“I am a public health researcher with a keen interest in the arts—is that better?”

“Yes! “ And she pricked and stabbed the dry plum with her toothpick.  In a flash, scenes from “The Marathon Man” haunted me.

“So, why the 7th and 20th?  Obviously there is a reason since you remember the specific Nocturnes.”

Took me a while trying to replay the feeling of these two Nocturnes – impossible!  I had a general sensation as to what they were, but nothing more.  However, to my scare and surprise, I could articulate a few feelings.

“The 20th reminds me of the people I met over the past decades.  There is revolt, fear, determination, passion, pursuit and calm about their existence.”

“Hmm… Interesting recollection – go on.”

“The 7th, if I remember correctly, is simple.  It is introspective but simple.  It is more black and white.  It is perhaps like the people I would like to meet at this stage in my life.”

I wanted to ask her useless questions like “where do you play?” or “tell me more about you”, but resisted.  These questions have no usefulness on flights, when people meet and depart like frothy waves upon vast beaches.  Without consequence.

“You seem to know who you want to meet.”

“Well, in some way.  We learn what makes us comfortable with age, no?”

“I suppose.  Although we do revert to old loves even if now they erupt in your inner spaces differently.  Look at you – you remember the Nocturnes after all these years!  But if you listen to them again, you may decide that the 7th is more complicated than you once thought.  Or that the No 20…”

“Sure.  But why did you disinfect your whole sitting area with hot towel???  I have never seen anyone do that!”

She smiled, as if she had anticipated that obvious question.

“It makes this inherently impersonal space a bit more personal for 16 hours.  I know it is a strange thing to do, but I like to have a space, a person, a note, a heartbeat in a very intimate way for the space of a moment.  That is how an artist interprets things – by making them her own, fully, unequivocally her own for a short while.  Do you do that?”

I had not thought about it that way.  I took another sip on my 21 year old Royal Salute, the only whisky on board, and wondered if indeed, I do build time cocoons around spaces, people, or a heartbeat.  And if I make them mine, as if the photography of the experience, framed in some wood or metal, or just the feeling of the moment.

“Maybe.  Although I would like to make people be unequivocally mine for longer, if they accept.”

“It does not matter as long as you know that you have to let them go one day.  Or that you have to leave them to someone else; or for someone else.”

I was very happy.  Finally got a travel companion who could fill these hours with meaningful insights.

Then she decided to watch a movie, and I thanked her for the fun ideas and that I would now sleep, and perhaps listen to Chopin in my dreams.

“You better dream of the next exciting people you plan to meet!” she said with a smile that was now tired. 
I thought the two bottles of “Choya” were having an effect -- or was it the revenge of the plum she stabbed without mercy?

The sleeping cover given by EVA Airlines was as thick and comfortable as the one we have at home, so once my body was pretzeled just right, the comfort of sleeping a few hours was delightful.  And I did so without regret.
…. I woke up a few hours later and she was still watching movies.

“Any Chopin?”

We landed in Los Angeles uneventfully.

“I enjoyed the conversation.  Thanks for making me think about Nocturnes and C-sharp.”

“I hope public health and the arts always mix well for you. After all, health is more than just the absence of disease, yes?” And as she was leaving, turned back and whispered “The 20 is really not a Nocturne, but don’t worry about it…”


November 7, 2010

©Vahé Kazandjian, 2013

No comments:

Post a Comment